Any big city has its rough spots, but visiting Colombia’s capital was slightly more daunting than others because of its past reputation of drug lords and cartels. Those thoughts dissipated when I arrived in downtown Bogotá and began wandering La Candelaria, a neighborhood equivalent to a European old city. The buildings were of Spanish colonial and art deco styles, colorful and quaint, and decorated with intricate murals. A cat eye painted on a utility pole…